There’s no better way to spruce up your spring landscaping and get ready for that first BBQ of summer than by planting a new lawn. Sometimes this can be an overwhelming task to take on, but with a few tips and a good plan, planting a lawn can be a fun and rewarding project.
The first thing to consider when planting a new lawn is temperature of both the air and soil. Grass seed germinates best when the air temperature is between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. This also allows the soil to warm up and for those brand new roots to thrive. Plan to plant your seed when the air temperature will likely stay in this range for six to eight weeks.
When preparing your seed bed, consider the existing soil type. Is the soil you’re planning to plant into the native soil, or is it fill brought in after construction of a new home? Most soils in the Pacific Northwest (PNW) have adequate fertility for a strong and healthy lawn, but in some cases it may be necessary to bring in top soil, if fill dirt was brought in for new construction for example. You may consider having your soil tested to determine the pH level and decide if adding lime before planting is necessary. Most turf grasses will do well in pH levels of 5.5 to 6.5.
Rototilling comes next, and this is done to loosen the soil and to make it easier to grade and level. Avoid tilling when the soil is wet as this can damage the soil structure and create large clods. If you are adding lime, make sure to rototill it in to ensure it is mixed well with your soil. Rake and roll the seedbed to achieve a nice and smooth surface- no one likes running barefoot on a bumpy lawn!
The biggest decision you’ll likely have to make when planting a new lawn is deciding what kind of grass to use. In the PNW, there are three main turf grass types to choose from; Perennial Ryegrass (PRG), Tall Fescue (TF), and Fine Fescue (FF). Perennial Ryegrass is the most common type planted. It has a beautiful green color and is soft on your kiddos’ bare feet in the summer. This turf grass does best in full sun, but also requires more water to keep green as its roots are shallower than fescue. It has higher fertility requirements, so plan on fertilizing more often to keep it lush and green. Plant 8-10 pounds of PRG seed per 1,000 square feet. Tall Fescue also is often used for lawns in this area. While it has thicker, slightly stiffer grass blades, it is more drought tolerant than PRG, and also holds up to the wear and tear of kids, lawn games, and mowers better. It grows well in sun or shade, and newer varieties have a nice dark green color. Plant 8-10 pounds per 1,000 square feet for this grass as well. Last but not least is Fine Fescue, which comes in three types: Creeping Red Fescue, Chewings Fescue, and Hard Fescue. Fine Fescues are a good blend of softer bladed grass, with the higher wear and tear and drought tolerance of Tall Fescue. This grass is a good choice for soils with lower fertility and or shaded areas, and are typically used in a mix with PRG and/or TF. Planted alone as a lawn, the seeding rate for Fine Fescue is 5-7 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Maybe want a blend of the above features? The Ioka “Sun & Shade” lawn mix could be a great fit for you!
Once you have decided on a turf seed type or mix, it’s time to plant. Use a drop seeder to spread seed and follow with a roller to ensure good soil to seed contact. You may choose to do an application of mulch or peat moss on top of the seed to hold moisture and help aid germination, and also possibly help with erosion if your lawn is sloped. Make sure to spread your mulch or peat no thicker than 1/8 –1/4 inch thick.
When making an irrigation plan, you want to keep the seed moist so it will germinate, but not soggy and water logged, as this could cause rot issues. Ideally, the area should be watered 2 to 4 times daily, just long enough for the surface to look wet. Do this until you see that the majority of the seed has germinated and that green covers the entire area. Don’t count on the spring rains to do this for you, you’ll need to keep a watchful eye for the first week or so after you plant your seed. Once the grass is up and growing, slowly transition to longer, more infrequent waterings.
Lastly, it’s time for fertilizer. For seeded lawns, you can use nearly any fertilizer that is relatively high in nitrogen (N). Nitrogen, either alone or in combination with phosphorus or potassium, stimulates growth after germination and speeds establishment of the turf. In most situations for seeded lawns, try the following approach: Apply a complete fertilizer (N-P-K) when you plant at a rate of 1.5 to 2 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft. You can use 15-15-15 if you like, but regular turf-grade fertilizers high in nitrogen and potassium and low in phosphorus (e.g., 10-2-6, 21-7-14, 24-4-12, etc.) are best. Reapply at the same rate about four to six weeks after planting to further accelerate establishment. These will be the two most important applications you will ever make to your lawn.
Start to mow as soon as there is enough grass to cut, and enjoy the endless benefits of a beautiful lawn!
Sources:
“Practical Lawn Establishment and Renovation” by Tom Cook, Oregon State University, 2004.
